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AMUSE BOUCHE                 by Chef Chip Desormeaux
/ah-mooz boosh/ def: A small complimentary appetizer offered at fine restaurants. From French, literally, "it entertains the mouth."

Food & Entertaining Tips from The Portable Chef

   





You know, mankind has come a long way when you think about it. No longer do we define good health and happiness as "another day having escaped the jaws of a saber-toothed cat."

Obtaining nourishment no longer involves wrangling some beast to the ground or foraging pretty red berries from a bush.

We've refined our foods into something not only nourishing but also something truly pleasurable. We seek aesthetic and even spiritual nourishment from our food.

Today I decided to write about one of my most favorite foods. One that I most definitely gain aesthetic and spiritual nourishment from.

And while you read what I wrote, I believe I'll go enjoy some of it right now...


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The Food of the Gods

It's a couple hours past dinner and I'm already making a mental trip into the kitchen, trying to think of what I might have in the fridge that would be fun to eat.

Hmm. What do I want? Something crunchy? Or something sweet, maybe? Something I can swish around my mouth and savor!

This is a typical evening scenario for me. And it's usually not too long before I start to get chocolate on the brain.

Have you ever wondered where chocolate comes from? Me too. So I got a book. The True History of Chocolate, by Sophie & Michael Coe.

It turns out that we've been enjoying chocolate as we know it, in it's solid form, for only a tenth of it's existence in the history of mankind.

Since its earliest use some three millennia ago, it has been primarily enjoyed as a drink. It wasn't until the 19th century that a Dutchman found a way to solidify chocolate into a candy bar. (Bless him.)

Chocolate was most notably enjoyed by our South American friends, the Aztecs, who existed around the 15th and 16th centuries. Actually, it goes back a good bit further than that even, apparently starting with a civilization I'd never heard of, the Olmecs, who have been traced back as far as 1500 BC.

Chocolate, or "xocoatl", as it was called by the Aztecs, was reserved for princes, priests, high officials, and rich traders. It was a bitter and spicy mixture valued for its revitalizing virtues and enhancing sexual prowess (and, thankfully, it still does.)

In the many centuries of it's existence, all kinds of things have been added to chocolate to make it more interesting: vanilla, chiles, cinnamon, musk, orange blossom water, almonds, hazelnuts, jasmine, cloves and even wine.

The process that chocolate goes through to actually become the chocolate we consume is unbelievable.

A cocoa "pod" contains in it the cocoa beans which reside in a fruity white pulp. The beans themselves are extremely bitter and inedible. But it's actually these beans that become chocolate.

Once extracted, the beans undergo an arduously precise process that essentially involves fermentation, drying, roasting, crushing into a "grué", and grinding into a paste before they become anything even slightly resembling chocolate.



Chocolate has come a very long way since its early days in the hands of Aztec nobility. Once chocolate invaded Europe in the 1600s, it was enjoyed in chocolate houses everywhere, much like today's Starbucks coffee houses, where people gathered to visit among friends and businessmen met to negotiate.

Once we learned to produce it in quantity, chocolate made it's way into a wide variety of confections and pastry. And then Milton Hershey got a-hold of it and created an adulterated version that was cheap enough for every man to enjoy.

Today chocolate is enjoying a new resurgence as we discover finer productions by Ghirardelli (my favorite), Valrhona (a French chocolate from the Rhone Valley), Callebaut , and Scharffen Berger (who are now owned by those Hershey people.)

I hope I've inspired you to enjoy a chocolate bar today. In fact I would even bet money that you'll be having chocolate within two hours of closing this newsletter. But, hopefully, you'll stop and savor it and enjoy it in a different way this time.

Bon Appetit!
Chef Chip Desormeaux

Lagniappe!
/lahn-yop/ def: A Cajun term for "a little something extra, more than what you paid for."
Recipe. When I do finally get up from my cushy sofa to forage the kitchen, one thing I often settle into is chocolate fudge sauce on vanilla ice cream.

I love it with nuts, especially blanched pistachios.

My chocolate sauce has been in our family longer than I've been around. It's basically a souped-up ganache. I like it because when you pour it warm over ice cream it glops up into a wonderfully chewy mass. I also like it because it keeps in the fridge for months.

Once you've had some of this stuff, you'll never go Smuckers again!!!

I suppose you're probably wondering what that little basket looking thing is that the ice cream is in, right? It's a tuile /tweel/ cookie.

It's a very easy preparation of eggs and sugar mainly. You bake it for just a few minutes and then you can mold it however you want. And they're really tasty.

Very easy to make. Recipes here.


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